So you love traveling and have probably visited the “must sees’” of Kenya. You know… the Mara, Mombasa, Lamu and surrounding islands, Samburu national reserve, the camel derby in mararal, and Mount Kenya region. If you have never had that much time – perhaps a sneak preview of safari at the Nairobi national park, a visit to the museum and giraffe center. You have also tasted the tented camps (picture nice hotel room, knock off the walls and roof, replace with a canvas tent).

A good look at the Kenyan map – and you say “hey! I’ve never been up north and would love to visit”. You’ve got 2 options – an adventure free holiday where you get to fly to places with beautiful lodges or do it the adventurous way – classical camping, and drive into the dessert.

Final destination was Sibiloi National Park located in Turkana. We opted for two different routes; Going to Sibiloi: Nairobi – Isiolo – Samburu – Laisamis (via Kaisut Dessert) – Marsabit – Merille (via Karoli Desert) – Maikoma (via Chalbi Dessert) – North Horr – Sibiloi (via Chalbi Dessert). The road is tarmacked up to Isiolo town. Beyond there it’s rough, rocky and at times sandy. By the time we go to Sibiloi, one of the tyres had to be changed due to the wear and tear.

Sites to remember & memories from this route:

Striking Scenery while crossing the desert, it was amazing to cross a stretch of Karoli dessert which was rock rock and more rock with scarce or no vegetation at all. I was glad to spot fire stones and beautiful purple stones which serve as souvenir. We spotted a few people (perhaps rendille) herding their camels on scarce vegetation. It was humbling just trying to empathize on their lifestyle – how they survive. Do they drink water or is it camel milk and meat? Did the rest of the Kenyans remember them? Do leaders remember them? Also spotted were what I believe to be oil patches! Would we get richer or poorer with oil mining? Lunch with Two rendille men at laisamis who were keeping watch over land. Apparently there had been shifters the previous night. High temperatures – easily drank two liters of water to avoid dehydration yet the residents of the areas we passed through may not have drunk water in days. Recycling water bottles that were half drunk due to thirst before restocking at Marsabit.

Change in temperatures – nice cool temperatures at marsabit which has a national reserve and altitude of 1700 m surrounded by lower altitudes and deserts. What a welcome - Marsabit has a spring! Though desserts are said to have water; it just a question of where and how deep. Seeing food – you know onions, cabbage and potatoes at the kiosk after crossing rocky land.

Merille – met the Gabbra and bought unique hand made ushanga (necklace) - haven’t spotted one like that in the Nairobi Maasai market. Water is a precious commodity.
Half the day spent driving through the arid land and seeing acacia trees get green, and then palm like trees, then voila! An OASIS….. Then further on welcome to North Horr. And am so glad they are using solar energy!

Dilemna at a cross road of four (or three) different routes as we head to Sibiloi (having passed North Horr). Getting lost for a few minutes – we went round in a circle at Chalbi dessert where there was loose soil and the wind had blown away truck makings. (No worries though most of the road is rocky and u don’t lose the road).

A whole day’s drive from North Horr and arrival at Sibiloi after four days on the road. Into the park and it is really hilly. Animals spotted: gravy zebra, reticulated gazelle, Somali ostrich, Must see: Kobe foray (missed this one) and the fossils. Rain in Turkana – we were stuck but I was so grateful for the rain.

Coming to Nairobi: Sibiloi – Loyangalani –Baragoi - South Horr – Maralal – Laikipia – Nyahururu – Nairobi. This road trip was much more pleasant as the road is graded; except for Baragoi where we got stuck after a down pour and in Sibiloi Park where we got stuck on a sandy stretch.

Sites to remember & memories from this route
Most memorable is Loyangalani – felt like the coast and looked like the beach, the light of my trip. If you love cultural tourism – this is the place. The children were generous enough to teach me the dance. The youth were having a dance which is normally done when there’s a full moon. I got to spend the night in a rendille designed hut at mosaretu campsite. And showered with water straight from a hot spring. Oh there’s’ lots of water in this place.

This is a ‘cosmopolitan’ town with 4 main communities MOSARET i.e. El Molo, Samburu, Rendille, Turkana. Also present are Meru, Kikikuyu and was told a Luo too; all leaving in harmony.

Something lovely from the rocky dessert. - Gem stones for souvenirs – quartz etc (to get names) and authentic handcrafts.
Rain at Baragoi – still happy despite getting stuck. They need it more than I the tourist. Bought good quality and pure honey at South Horr parish.

Maralal – lots of game: spotted giraffes out in the savannah & gravy zebra. There’s Maralal national reserve where you could visit. Busy town with lots of business going on.

Laikipia – and as the people I’ve met on my week long journey would say – welcome to Kenya (Kenya is where the tarmac ends.) they call themselves Northern Frontier District (NFD) got this from Marsabit. At All stop overs made – people would ask: Mumetoka wapi? And we say – Nairobi. They would say – yaani Kenya. And id would be at a loss of words because that’s how it seems to them. It also felt and looked different to what my eyes see. This is my country and I love it – a big chunk of it seems to be the dessert and the life there is definitely different. It can change it can get better. And tourism is one of the many ways that can open up the north. Join in the adventure travel like I did – interact with the people and buy lots of souvenirs. Some can’t be bought – they are precious memories you’ve got to see!

TRAVEL TIPS
Spare tyres and tool box
Fuel Reserve
Tourist map & geographical map plus compass (in our case our driver gave direction)
Proper first aid box and skills
Food supplies (from town to town it took a whole day and we would stop over for quick lunch) and restocking at every opportunity
Sand Mat, spade, jembe
Get Police escort preferably at Isiolo and with prior arrangement. (not sure what happened with Acherer’s Post)
We crossed many seasonal rivers especially on the first route: May be impassable during rainy season

Living Tips
Creativity on menu
Funny side of you to deal with the cynical. This is reality – have fun and treasure the moment (there are fellow humans who live where you are).
Enjoy the changing scenery – its amazing creation
Respect the communities point of view
Learn something new
If traveling with a group you haven’t met before: Make friends it’s a long drive ahead! Makes the journey interesting……..Otherwise fly straight to Turkana.